A journey across Afghanistan in the 1960s: 20,000 miles by Land Rover, horse and yak

Strand led me across rooftops and down the steep narrow streets through the heart of the village. We passed a bari lumberjack with a pair of axes on his shoulder. “Lesta sha!” he said. “How are you!” Strand returned the Kom greeting, adding, “Kor yenji! Kaa unji!” meaning “Where are you going? What are you doing?” He was not prying; these inquiries are part of the normal greeting ceremony. Shy women in black dresses—some with eyes outlined in red mascara—hurried past, lugging baskets of firewood. I was surprised by the...