The Tiny Country Caught in the Battle for Europe's Future

One gray morning last fall I visited Andrei Morari and Ecaterina Samonii at their home in Chisinau, Moldova's unassuming capital. Black tea brewed on the kitchen table and their two cats purred below. Their home was scattered with keepsakes, including a small statue of Lenin that Andrei had brought back from Moscow, where he'd lived for a time as a history student.